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Sky Europes’s fare from Stansted to Bratislava was £34.44 return including taxes, so we decided to take the children there for a short break. We asked our agent to book us into budget accommodation.
The Hotel Nivy was built during the communist period and refurbished in 1998. It was perfectly acceptable at a cost of £30 per room per night.
The hotel was located in the modern suburbs, close to recently re-painted blocks, but only a short tram journey from the historic centre. Tickets to ‘Centrum’ should be booked before the journey from the kiosk by the stop, although the English language skills of staff there are not always good. Tickets should be punched in the machines on the tram.
At Centrum, there are a variety of impressive buildings. The children thought that this must be the historic centre which is actually a short walk away. Bratislava’s historic centre is a compact, pedestrianised area of narrow streets with a number of pavement cafes and street attractions.
We continued on past St Martin’s Cathedral and up the hill to Bratislava’s best know landmark, Bratislava Castle which was reconstructed during the 1950’s and 1960’s. The Castle is on a hilltop overlooking the River Danube. The children were photographing the views looking back towards the old town. They wanted to see the view over the river – I told them that it was not the view that they were expecting, for on the other side of the river is the Petrazalka District, a mass of high rise apartments. It is still a spectacular sight.
The children were enjoying themselves in the Castle grounds and then the inner courtyard. The Castles exhibitions were slightly disappointing for such a major site. A small exhibition of religious painting and sculpture; another of a Slovakian wind instrument (intended we presumed to demonstrate that Slovakia really does have a distinctive national identity). The main exhibition focused on Leonardo da Vince. It was full of information about is ideas and vision, but we had hoped to see some of his original work.
The other disappointment was the WC. It is common is Slovakia to pay a small charge to use a toilet. Our children, not realizing this, were shouted at by a woman who spoke no English and who’s temper didn’t improve after my arrival because payment was expected in Euros, or when after agreeing to accept Slovak Crowns I gave her a high denomination note.
Nevertheless it was quite a nice day out and over a generous portion of Slovak food I tried to persuade my sceptical children that it would be worth traveling to the outskirts of the city next day to see Devin Castle.
We prefer to use local transport, so we returned next day to the bus station, which is by the Danube, just below the Castle. The bus number 29 goes to Devin. Tickets should be purchased from the kiosk. When we asked about Devin, the bus station staff thought that we said Wien (Vienna), so it might be better to ask for ‘Hradna Devin’ (Devin Castle). The bus journey takes 22-23 minutes.
Devin Castle is a spectacular sight, perched on a hill where the Danube and Morava rivers meet and looking down onto Austrian territory on the opposite banks. Outdoor restaurants, souvenir kiosks and an hotel are by the entrance (not overdone). The grounds include a medieval camp and there is a small exhibition in one of the castle rooms.
There has been a Castle at Devin since before the Romans; it was impregnable until Napoleons army arrived. Today it’s remains are extensive and well managed. The entrance ticket is a postcard of the Castle – nice touch!
Wandering along the riverside walk afterwards I asked my son if he was pleased that I persuaded him to come here. ‘Yes’ he replied ‘this is one of the best places I’ve seen’.
Conclusions: Bratislava is just a short bus ride from Vienna, and is also close to Budapest and Prague, so it’s not surprising that it is not as well known as it’s neighbours. The city is certainly worth a visit. Be sure to allow time for a visit to Devin Castle!
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